How to Choose Keycaps: A Complete Beginner's Buying Guide

Mechanical keyboard keycaps in different materials and profiles laid out for comparison

If you're new to mechanical keyboards, shopping for your first keycap set can get overwhelming fast. This guide walks through material, profile, sizing, compatibility and legend printing one decision at a time, so you end up with a set that actually fits your board.

Why Are Keycaps Worth Choosing Carefully?

Product listings throw a lot of terminology at you right away:

  • PBT Keycaps / ABS Keycaps
  • Cherry Profile / OEM Profile / XDA Profile / SA Profile
  • Double Shot / Dye Sublimation

And then there's key count and layout compatibility:

  • 61 Keys / 87 Keys / 104 Keys / 130 Keys
  • 60% Compatible / 65% Compatible / 75% Compatible

For a first-time buyer, that's a lot to parse. You've probably wondered:

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Why do keycap sets vary so much in price?
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Is PBT always better than ABS?
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Will this set fit my keyboard?
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How many keycaps does a 65% board need?
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Does profile height really change how it feels?

Here's the thing — keycaps aren't just decoration. They're the part your fingers touch every day, and they affect:

  • Typing feel
  • Sound
  • Comfort over long sessions
  • The look of your board
  • How long the set stays looking new

Swapping keycaps is one of the easiest ways to improve a mechanical keyboard. This guide covers material, profile, sizing, compatibility, legend printing, and what to pick for your specific use case.

Which Keyboards Let You Change Keycaps?

A keycap is the plastic cover that sits on top of a mechanical switch. The switch registers the keypress; the keycap determines everything you actually feel — texture, sound and appearance.

One important prerequisite: only mechanical keyboards let you swap keycaps. Membrane keyboards don't.

On a membrane board, the keys sit on a single moulded rubber dome sheet — the cap and the mechanism underneath aren't separable, and pulling one off usually means it won't go back. On a mechanical board, every keycap clips independently onto its own switch stem, which is the entire reason a keycap market exists.

Not sure which one you have? Three checks that don't require taking anything apart:
  • Check the product page or box — if it mentions mechanical switches, Cherry MX, Gateron, Kailh, or switch colours like red, blue, brown or silver, it's mechanical.
  • Look at it from the side — if you can see individual switch housings in the gaps between keycaps, it's mechanical. A single flat plastic panel underneath usually means membrane.
  • Press a key — mechanical switches have a distinct tactile bump or click and a crisp return. Membrane keys feel softer and mushier, and only register when bottomed out.

Once you've confirmed it's mechanical, swapping caps takes a keycap puller and a few minutes — see our guide on how to remove keycaps safely.

The rest of this guide works through the decisions in order: material → profile → compatibility → sizing → legends.

PBT or ABS: Which Keycap Material Should You Choose?

Material is usually the first thing to settle. The two common options are ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate). Both are injection molded — the difference shows up in how the surface behaves over time.

Close-up comparison of PBT and ABS keycap surface texture
Surface texture difference between PBT and ABS keycaps.
PBT ABS
Surface Lightly textured, more grip Smooth and slick
Long-term wear Resists shine High-use keys develop shine
Colour options More limited Wider range, richer colours
Price Higher Lower

Which One to Pick

If you... Go with
Type, code or game for hours daily PBT
Are buying your first set PBT
Prefer a slicker, smoother surface ABS
Want bold colours or themed designs ABS
Short answer: for most first-time buyers, PBT is the safest and easiest set to live with.

For a closer look at how the two compare on density, heat resistance, sound and real-world wear rate, we have a dedicated breakdown: PBT vs ABS Keycaps →

Which Keycap Profile Should You Choose?

After material, profile is the other factor that meaningfully changes your experience.

Profile refers to the height and top shape of a keycap, plus how that height changes from row to row. It affects finger travel, typing angle, comfort and sound.

No single profile suits everyone. Rather than getting lost in specs, work backwards from how you actually use your board.

Side profile height comparison of OEM, Cherry, XDA and SA keycaps
Side-by-side height comparison of four common profiles.

Pick a Profile by Use Case

Your situation Pick Why
First set, no strong preference yet OEM The default on most stock boards — zero adjustment period
Long typing or coding sessions Cherry Lower than OEM, shorter finger travel, less fatigue
Clean, uniform desk aesthetic XDA Even height, wide flat tops, great for printed designs
Retro look and a deeper sound SA Tall spherical tops with real presence
Prefer a flatter typing angle DSA Uniform and low, suits compact layouts
⚠ Note: SA is a tall profile and will noticeably change your typing posture and wrist angle. Not recommended as a first set — get comfortable with OEM or Cherry first.

That covers the buying decision. If you want the actual height figures, the difference between spherical and cylindrical tops, and how each profile changes the sound of a board, we go into detail here:

Keycap Profiles Explained: Cherry vs DSA vs XDA →

How Do You Know If Keycaps Will Fit Your Keyboard?

The most common first-timer mistake is finding a colourway you like and ordering it on the spot. Unfortunately — not every keycap set fits every mechanical keyboard.

Three things to check before you buy:

  1. Switch compatibility — does the stem match?
  2. Keyboard layout — how many keys, and which layout?
  3. Special key sizes — Shift, bottom row, spacebar

1. Switch Compatibility

The overwhelming majority of mechanical keyboards use a Cherry MX style stem — the familiar cross-shaped mount. It's the de facto industry standard, and it covers:

  • Cherry MX
  • Gateron
  • Kailh
  • TTC
  • Outemu

If your board uses standard MX-style switches, most third-party keycap sets will drop straight on.

Cherry MX style stem
⚠ Note: low-profile switches are not interchangeable.
Cherry Low Profile and Kailh Choc switches use a completely different stem and housing height, so standard keycaps will not fit. Confirm your switch type before ordering. For slim boards, see our low-profile keycap guide.

2. Layout Compatibility: How Many Keycaps Do You Need?

Beyond the stem, layout is where most people get caught out.

It's tempting to assume "my board has 68 keys, so I need 68 keycaps." Not quite. What matters more than the count is whether the set includes the right sizes — right Shift, bottom row and spacebar. Miss one and the set won't complete your board.

Layout Quick Reference

Layout Typical keys Right Shift Bottom row Spacebar Recommended set
40% 40–45 1.75u Non-standard Varies Board-specific kit
60% 61 2.75u Standard 6.25u 61+ keys
65% 66–68 1.75u 1.25u + 1u Fn 6.25u 130 keys
75% 80–84 1.75u 1.25u ×3 6.25u 130 keys
TKL 87 2.75u Standard 6.25u 87+ keys
Full Size 104 / 108 2.75u Standard 6.25u 104+ keys
⚠ Note: right Shift is the biggest trap. 65% and 75% boards use a 1.75u right Shift, not the traditional 2.75u. This is the single most common reason a set doesn't fit — the switches match perfectly, but that one key won't seat.

What Each Layout Actually Is

60%
61 keys

Alphas, number row and core modifiers. No function row, number pad or dedicated arrows. The simplest layout to shop for — most standard sets work.

65%
66–68 keys

60% plus dedicated arrow keys and a few navigation keys. To fit the arrows in, right Shift gets shortened and an extra Fn key appears on the bottom row.

Check for: 1.75u Shift · 1u Fn
75%
80–84 keys

Keeps the function row, number row and arrows, but removes the gaps found on traditional boards. Commonly 81, 82 or 84 keys.

Check for: 1.75u Shift · 1.25u bottom row
TKL
87 keys

Tenkeyless — a full-size board minus the number pad. Standard ANSI TKL uses a standard bottom row and Shift, so compatibility is straightforward.

Full Size
104 / 108 keys

The traditional office layout with a full number pad. Common variants are ANSI 104, ISO 105 and 108 — a 104-key set covers most cases.

40%
40–45 keys

Minimalist to the extreme — even the number row is gone. Bottom row sizing varies wildly between boards, so a board-specific kit is usually the only safe option.

Check for: your exact board model

Why Is Everyone Recommending 130-Key Sets?

It's a fair question: "My 65% board only has 68 keys — why would I buy a 130-key set?"

The answer is simple — a bigger set means more size options, not more keys on your board. You're buying coverage, not quantity.

Large sets typically include extras like:

  • Multiple Shift sizes
  • Alternate bottom row combinations
  • Mac modifier keys
  • ISO layout keys
  • Spare accent-colour keys

A single 130-key set will usually cover 60%, 65%, 75%, TKL and even some full-size boards.

💡 Recommendation: for a first purchase, buying bigger is safer than buying exact. Leftover keys cost you nothing; one missing size leaves your board incomplete.

What Does 1u Mean in Keycap Sizing?

Key count isn't the whole story — sizing matters just as much. The industry measures keycap width in u (units).

1u = the width of one standard letter key. A, B and C are all 1u. Every other key size is expressed as a multiple of that.
Key Common size
Letter keys 1u
Ctrl 1.25u
Alt 1.25u
Tab 1.5u
Caps Lock 1.75u
Shift 1.75u / 2.25u
Enter 2.25u
Spacebar 6.25u

Why Sizing Matters So Much

Because layout changes special key sizes. A 65% board might use a 1.75u right Shift where a full-size board uses 2.75u.

⚠ Note: if a set doesn't include the size you need, it won't complete your board even with fully compatible switches. So don't just ask "how many keycaps" — ask "does it have my sizes."

Double Shot vs Dye Sub: What's the Difference?

How the legends (the letters and symbols) are applied determines how long they stay readable. Both mainstream methods are permanent — they differ in what each does well.

Method How it works Good at Not good at
Double Shot Two plastics moulded together — legend and body are separate pieces RGB shine-through, legends that never wear Complex artwork, higher cost
Dye Sublimation Heat infuses dye into the surface of the plastic Detailed artwork and multi-colour themes Usually no shine-through
💡 Recommendation: RGB backlighting and want the legends to glow → Double Shot. Care more about artwork and themed designs → Dye Sub. Both hold up far better than pad-printed legends, which wear off.

Which Keycaps Should You Buy for Your Use Case?

Requirements differ, and the most expensive set isn't automatically the right one for you.

Gaming

PBT + OEM / Cherry profile + Double Shot + shine-through

Gaming hammers the same handful of keys and generates more hand moisture, so surface durability matters. PBT holds up over time and Double Shot legends won't wear off WASD.

Typing & Office

PBT + Cherry profile + dye-sublimated legends

Built for hours of input: an easy-to-adapt height, a stable textured surface, and no shine developing on your most-used keys.

Custom Builds

Distinct profile + themed dye-sub set + artisan accent keys

Enthusiast builds tend to prioritise design and personal expression. Start from a solid base kit, then add hand-finished artisan keycaps as accents.

How Should a Beginner Choose Their First Set?

If this is your first keycap purchase, you don't need to master every spec up front. This combination works for the vast majority of mechanical keyboards:

  • PBT material — durable, resists shine
  • Cherry or OEM profile — minimal adjustment period
  • MX-compatible stem — fits most mechanical keyboards
  • Supports your layout — confirm before ordering
  • Includes common special sizes — 1.75u Shift, 1u Fn
  • Double Shot or dye-sub legends — won't wear off

It's compatible, easy to adapt to, and built to last — hard to go wrong with.

Five Checks Before You Order

Step Check What to look for
1 Material PBT resists shine; ABS is smoother with more colour options
2 Profile OEM is universal, Cherry suits long sessions, XDA / SA for a distinct feel
3 Compatibility Confirm switch type and keyboard layout
4 Sizing Spacebar, Shift and bottom row all accounted for
5 Design Colour, artwork and style — decide this last
Final thought: there's no single right answer here. The best keycaps are the ones that match your typing habits, your layout, your needs and your taste all at once. For most beginners, a quality PBT set in Cherry or OEM profile is a reliable place to start. Once you know what you like, XDA, SA and artisan pieces are all worth exploring.

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